Foods

I’d heard the name Hangawi (한가위) for ages before I finally went. It’s one of those big-name grill houses in Buk-gu, Ulsan, and I went for the lunch set, mostly to try the marinated US beef short rib. Short version: the place is much bigger than I expected, the mood is closer to a banquet hall than a typical BBQ joint, and the marinated galbi is an easy crowd-pleaser. It’s the kind of spot you’d take family or out-of-town guests. ...

I’d driven past this place in Eonyang (언양) more times than I can count. The red sign, the crowd that never seemed to thin out. This time I finally pulled over and went in. Where it is and what to know first Donghaebanjeom (동해반점) sits right across from Eonyang Eupseong (언양읍성, the old town fortress), so it’s easy to spot from the road. The parking lot is bigger than I expected, which is a relief if you’re driving. I found a spot without much trouble even around mealtime. ...

I didn’t plan to write about this place. I just kept going back. Haejeoksusan (해적수산) sits on a wide, slightly awkward road in Imdong (임동), up in Buk-gu, Gwangju. It’s not the kind of spot you stumble onto. There’s basically nothing around it — and then this one bright sign, lit up at night like it’s daring you to find it. Haejeoksusan (해적수산) 1F, 14 Geumnam-ro, Buk-gu, Gwangju (광주광역시 북구 금남로 14 1층) ...

If you look up galmaegisal (갈매기살, pork skirt meat) in Ulsan, Wonjeong Sigyuk Sikdang (원정식육식당) keeps coming up. The original branch sits in Okdong and apparently leans into that worn-in old-school vibe, with a wait most nights. We went to the newer Sinjeong branch instead. The sign lights up the whole corner once the sun goes down, which makes it easy to spot from a distance. It’s tucked behind Ulsan Industrial High School (울산공고), not far from the KBS Hall area or Samsan-dong (삼산동). ...

Whenever I find myself in Ulsan, there’s one restaurant I keep going back to: Hamyangjip Main Branch (함양집 본점) in the Sinjeong-dong neighborhood. It started in 1924 as a small dining hall called Hamyanggwan, and four generations later it’s still serving what many locals consider the best hanwoo mulhoe (한우물회) in town. Mulhoe is usually associated with raw fish, but here it’s made with thinly sliced raw Korean beef (hanwoo) floating in an icy, tangy broth. It sounds unusual if you’ve never tried it, but trust me, it’s one of the most refreshing Korean dishes you can have in summer. ...

If you’re spending an evening in Ulsan and you want to know what real Korean Hanwoo beef tastes like over actual charcoal, Yeonchun Chamsut Seoksoegui (연춘참숯석쇠구이) is the spot locals keep coming back to. It’s a small, slightly old-school grill house in Samsan, Nam-gu — nothing fancy from the outside, very serious about the meat once you sit down. I finally went after years of hearing the name, and yes, the hype is fair. Here’s an honest look at the menu, the food, and a few things travellers should know before going. ...

A bowl that keeps pulling me back There is a tiny noodle house tucked beside a quiet reservoir in Ulsan, and once you have tasted its spicy sujebi, you carry the memory of it around with you. The place is called Jeosuji Hyugesil — literally “the reservoir resting house” — and it has been a local legend in the Ulju area for years. What makes it unforgettable is the broth: deeply red, perfumed with sancho pepper (Korean prickly ash, a citrus-meets-spice flavour) and bangah leaves (Korean mint). Sujebi is the traditional hand-torn wheat-dough noodle floating inside, soft and pliable. The first spoonful feels a little strange. The last spoonful feels like something you want to taste again next week. ...

If you visit Miryang and only have time for one bowl, my pick is always dwaeji-gukbap — Korean pork soup with rice. Busan’s milky white version gets all the attention, but Miryang’s clear, lighter style has a charm of its own. On my latest trip I finally made it to Jeilsikdang, a small shop tucked into Susanjungang-ro in Hanam-eup. It’s well known to locals since being featured on cartoonist Heo Young-man’s TV show Baekban Travels, but the place has the kind of quiet, lived-in feel that only a thirty-year-old neighborhood spot can pull off. ...

If you’ve ever wandered through the Westin Josun Busan lobby and caught a glimpse of that ocean view, you’ve probably wondered about the cozy Irish pub tucked right there on the first floor. That’s O’Kim’s—a name that mashes up the most common surnames in Ireland (“O”) and Korea (“Kim”). I finally checked it off my list with a lunch date and, honestly, the Haeundae Beach view alone makes the visit worth it. Plenty of photos below, so settle in. ...

I used to think of sashimi and grilled hagfish whenever Haeundae came up, but this trip I was craving something different—a steaming pot of clams. My Busan friend told me Dapeojuneunjip was the spot. Loved by Korean celebrities, featured on multiple TV shows, this old-school clam hot pot place is a local institution. Bottom line: of every clam hot pot I’ve ever had, this had the deepest, cleanest broth. Their signature scallion-soy dipping sauce is a total game changer. Scroll on through—lots of photos below. ...